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This is a page to read BEFORE you breed. You need to have these foods prior to breeding so that you have them when the fry hatch. I cannot stress how important it is to be prepared!

When you decide to spawn is the day to start thinking about food for them. If you used live plants in your breeding tank, then you are already on your way. Using live plants automatically creates Infusoria, the fry's first food. 
bulletLiquirFry #1
bulletTetramin Baby Fish Food 'E'
bulletVinegar Eels
bulletBaby Brine Shrimp (BBS)
bulletDecapsulated Brine Shrimp Eggs
bulletLive/Frozen Foods
bulletChopped Black Worms
bulletFrozen Beef/Chicken Livers
bulletFrozen Beef Heart
bulletMosquito Larvae
bulletHikari Micro Pellets
1) Infusoria are micro organisms that live in the water. They are created by plant life in the water. You can grow them automatically in your tank by keeping live plants in there and adding a drop of Liqui-Fry #1 (if you use a 1-5 gallon tank or larger). If you do not have live plants, then click here for a recipe to make your own Infusoria. I keep live plants and use Liqui-Fry, so I do not use this recipe. Liqui-fry will also produce tiny little white worms you may see swimming in your fry tank, do not worry they are harmless and produce an extra food for your fry :)
2) Interpet's Liqui-Fry #1 is a liquid food for young fry. Not only does it provide food for the fry itself, it also aids in the production of microscopic organisms such as infusoria. Add one drop to your aquarium daily in conjunction with Tetramin's Baby Fish Food 'E' for only the first few days. If you do not have Tetramin's Baby Fish Food 'E', then a micro food powder will work. UUse it carefully because it can easily foul your tank. 
3) TetraMin's Baby Fish Food 'E' is a fine powdery food. It is similar to Micro Food. This is a good food for the top feeding fry. Use it once a day with Liqui-Fry for the first week or so of feeding.
4) MicroWorms - Start feeding MicroWorms on about day 2 or 3. These are small worms that grow and multiply in a yeast culture. A small amount on the tip of a Q-tip or a rubber spatula is more than enough. After feeding a few times, you will figure out the proper amount. MicroWorms can live for up to 3 days in the water. You will be able to see them wiggling at the bottom. You can feed the fry MicroWorms as long as they will eat them. You only need to feed MicroWorms up to the first 4-6 weeks. You can obtain your own culture through many breeders online, I myself no longer use them or keep them. Click on MicroWorms above for instructions on culturing them.
5) Vinegar Eels are similar to MicroWorms in size. They are cultured in vinegar and water, live longer in the fry tank and swim around rather than sinking to the bottom. Vinegar Eels require little attention and the culture will survive on it's own for months on end. These are great for breeders who only breed one spawn here and there and have no use for MicroWorms in between, or those who just don't enjoy sub-culturing microworms ALL the time, lol. You can feed Vinegar eels in place of MicroWorms or alternate between the two. Again, feed them until they are 4-6 weeks old :) Vinegar Eels are raised in Apple Vinegar, and vinegar is a natural PH decreaser. This is something you need to be careful of. A drastic decrease in the PH can kill your fry. Make absolutely sure you rinse the vinegar eels well before placing them in the tank. Click on Vinegar Eels above for instructions on culturing them. You can obtain a culture from me and some other breeders online.
6) Baby Brine Shrimp (BBS) - This is the most nutritional food, I believe. I start feeding these as soon as possible. Usually around 5 days I will start adding some. I start hatching them 24-48 hours prior to when I want to feed them. Click on the title of this paragraph for instructions on hatching and harvesting BBS. BBS are what we knew as children as Sea Monkeys. They only retain their nutritional value for about 12 hours, so only hatch out what you are going to use that day.
6a) Decapsulated Brine Shrimp Eggs - These can be purchased and fed to fry as soon as they are accepted. You can also de-shell your own eggs at home, hatch as you would normally and feed live BBS to your fry. Click the title to learn how.
7) Daphnia - I haven't used these so I have no info on them. When I get around to trying them I will write more on them, but they are a food for your fry. 
8) Live/frozen foods - When your fry are getting to be about 4-6 weeks old (depending on size) you can start feeding them new foods. Live and frozen foods will provide much needed nutrition for rapid growth. Feeding these foods causes the water to foul much quicker and partial water changes may be necessary after feeding some of these foods.
8a) Chopped Black Worms - Many fish stores will sell live black worms. These are great for your adult bettas and can also be great for fry/young juveniles. All you need to do is chop them up into small pieces and feed to them. The older the juveniles get, the less you will have to chop them.
8b) Frozen Beef/Chicken Livers - Simply take a piece of frozen liver, and shave it into the tank in small pieces. Shaving it onto a small plate first might work better for you. This is a very high protein food and will foul the water quickly. Plan on doing a partial water change after feeding this. 
8b) Frozen Beef Heart - Follow the directions for the liver above. 
8c) Small Mosquito Larvae - While harvesting Mosquito Larvae for the adults, you can sometimes find them in an earlier stage where they are much, much smaller. If you can find these, you can feed them to you fry.
9) Hikari Micro Pellets - These pellets (which feature a Neon Tetra on the package) are made especially for small fish. They are very tiny and are the perfect food to train your fry to eat dried foods.

Breeder's Corner

Deciding Gender
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Daddy's Duties
Feeding Your Fry
   Growth Recipes
Fry & Juvenile Growth
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  March 23, 2009 10:27 PM CST Pet Sites

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